Round Brilliant Engagement Rings

At Janai Jewellery, we have no reservations in saying that the Round Brilliant cut Diamond Engagement Rings is the most popular cut out there for new engagement rings. In fact, the round Brilliant cut diamond is the classic diamond cut, popular in every style of an engagement ring (including solitaire, halo, and even Trilogy Engagement Rings)

Featuring a whopping 57 facets (or 58 if there is a culet which is a facet at the base of the diamond, but the modern round brilliant cut is cut to a sharp point hence removing this facet), the round brilliant cut diamond lives up to its name by emitting an unrivalled amount of sparkle and glamourous refraction, making it the perfect option for any type of engagement ring. It can be seen as elegant and traditional, or big and bold, as the round brilliant cut diamond works well with a variety of engagement ring metals, including white gold, yellow gold, and platinum.


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Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Rings

Round Diamonds

Round Diamonds

The round cut diamond is the most popular diamond shape, representing approximately 75% of all diamonds sold. Due to the mechanics of its shape, the round diamond is generally superior to fancy diamond shapes at the proper reflection of light, maximizing potential brightness.

Virtually all round diamonds are brilliant-cut, meaning they have 58 facets (57 when there is no culet).

Round diamonds for Diamond Rings and other jewellery cost more on a per carat basis than fancy shapes for two reasons; the demand for round diamonds is very high, and the yield is relatively low. Because more of the rough stone is lost in the cutting of a round diamond, the cost of each carat retained is higher. A typical round diamond (for example; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% more than a similar fancy shape.

The round diamond began to rise in popularity in 1919 with the publication of Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesisDiamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond“. Tolkowsky’s work described the ideal proportions of a round cut diamond for maximizing light return (or brilliance) and dispersion (or fire). The original Tolkowsky specifications (53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.50 crown angle, visible culet) have since been modified as the cut mechanics for round diamonds have perfected over time. These theoretical advancements, as well as advancements in technology (such as the use of lasers in diamond cutting), have been adopted by diamond manufacturers to produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today in well cut round diamonds.

The table below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of a round diamond. GIA takes these and other factors into consideration when assigning a cut grade.

Evaluating color in round cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many customers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with round diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in round diamonds.

Like color, evaluating clarity in round diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in round diamonds.

Questions about shape or other aspects of a diamond? Ask a diamond consultant for answers. A consultant will answer any questions you have, and if you like, search for diamonds on your behalf that match your criteria. chat online, or email consultant from Janai Jewellery Melbourne.

Hearts And Arrows in Diamonds

Every industry has a flagship person/product. And in each industry, there is only place for one such icon.

For example, it is hard to talk about rock and roll without mentioning Elvis Presley because he is considered the representative icon of rock and roll. In comparison, Jerry Lee Lewis might have had a “whole lotta shakin’ going on”, but he will never be the most well-known figure whose facsimiles swamp the streets of Las Vegas.

Similarly, when it comes to diamond jewelry, the hearts and arrows diamond is definitely the masterpiece and most well-known phenomenon people associate diamonds with.


    8 arrows from table view – 8 perfect hearts from pavilion view

The Emergence of Hearts And Arrows Diamonds

Diamond cutting can be considered a branch of liberal arts. As with liberal arts in general, artists want to push the boundaries of their craft further and further. Back in the 1980s, Japanese jewelers were the first to discover the existence of a kaleidoscopic effect when a round brilliant cut diamond was examined through a special viewer.

At that time, those diamonds didn’t feature perfect looking hearts and arrows patternings yet. As the Japanese started to refine their polishing techniques, the cutting style slowly gained popularity and was picked up by other cutting houses around the world.

By the time the kaleidoscopic cutting style arrived in the United States during the early 1990s, the technique and guidelines had already been laid out to a certain degree.

What Exactly is a Hearts And Arrows Patterning?

When viewed from the top (crown), an ideally cut diamond should reveal eight symmetrical arrows. On the other hand, when the diamond was viewed from the bottom (pavilion), it should reveal eight symmetrical hearts.

Due to the extreme level of cutting precision required for symmetrical patterning, Hearts and Arrows diamonds are sometimes called “super ideals”. Fast forward to modern day, the term “super ideal” is used to define a diamond with superior light performance, material quality and precise optical symmetry.

Very few companies in the world have the expertise and knowledge to consistently cut diamonds for extremely performance and precision. If you are looking for a H&A diamond

Does an “Ideal” Cut Rating Equates to Hearts And Arrows?

The answer is NO.

Not all diamonds with an ideal cut rating (AGS) or excellent cut rating (GIA) will automatically qualify it as a hearts and arrows diamond. Technically speaking, the formation of a precise H&A patterning is due to extreme care that is taken when polishing each facet to exact angles and proportions. This level of precision goes way beyond the criteria needed to achieve a “excellent” symmetry rating.

Below are images of a diamond with poor optical symmetry and you could clearly see that the “hearts” aren’t well defined. Are you surprised to know this is what a typical GIA triple excellent round diamond looks like under a viewer?

Now, “Hearts And Arrows” is a very loosely used term that many jewelers utilize to market their inventory and this is something you need to beware of. Any jeweler who is claiming to sell you “super ideal” diamonds should provide you with all the necessary data (ASET, Idealscope, H&A images) to justify their claim. If they don’t, it is most likely a sham and marketing ploy used to prey on uneducated consumers.

What About This? Surely It Looks Better Than The Previous One


Does this qualify as a hearts and arrows diamond?

Don’t be fooled. Many sub-standard stones such as the example above are frequently passed off as the real deal. While I would consider the diamond to be pretty well-cut, it hasn’t achieve the pinnacle of cut precision. In my opinion, if I am going be charged an additional premium for hearts and arrows diamonds, it had better be the cream of the crop. This diamond isn’t.

On the next page, I’m going to show you the guidelines to determining optical symmetry and teach you how to make your own judgements. At the end of the day, you want to make sure that any premium you pay for H&A diamonds is really justified and you aren’t walking away short-changed.


Guidelines for Optical Symmetry in Hearts And Arrows

While some sort of standardization exists, there are still a lot of cutters who are producing under par diamonds and trying to pass them off as Hearts and Arrows stones. Here are some basic guidelines that you can use to check whether your chosen diamond has good optical symmetry.

  1. On a decent Hearts and Arrows diamond, there should be 8 regularly shaped hearts and 8 regularly shaped arrows. That is, the absence of all or any hearts or arrows is not permitted.
  2. Both hearts and arrows should have identical intensity. That is, one hearts presence should be just as pronounced as the other’s.
  3. Ideally speaking, coloration of the hearts is not permitted. While this feature is relatively minor, you should see a single color tone instead of 2 different shades of colors.
  4. Both hearts and v-tips should be symmetrical. That is, one side of the heart or the v-tip should look like a mirror image of the other side.
  5. The shafts around the hearts should be aligned with the points of the arrows; otherwise the two sets of shapes will not play nicely together.
  6. There should be a gap between every heart shape and the V-shape at their bottom. Of course, the gaps between each of the 8 hearts should be equal.
  7. There should be little to no variation in shoulder width in the hearts, and the shoulders should not be pointed either.
  8. The V-shape pattern formed by the V-shapes at the bottoms of the hearts should be symmetrical.
  9. The table reflection between the ends of the arrow shafts should be a regular shape and have a medium diameter.
  10. Each arrow head and the shaft should be correctly aligned.
  11. The size of the arrow shafts and pointed tips should be uniform.

What Is An Acceptable Standard For The 8 Hearts And 8 Arrows?

In reality, a perfectly cut diamond that conforms 100% to all these guidelines rarely exists. Even the top 0.1% of the round brilliant cuts in the market would exhibit some form of minor variations. These minute variations are acceptable as long as the overall integrity of the guidelines is in place.

Also, taking a great picture or viewing the hearts and arrows patterning isn’t a straightforward process. It does require some practice especially if you had no prior experience. Any slight tilt of the diamond or your eye (even by a minute 0.5 degrees) would cause the patterning to be slightly skewed. Do bear this in mind when you are physically examining diamonds in stores.

To view more examples of well-cut hearts and arrows diamonds, visit and Both vendors are industry leaders of super ideal cut diamonds.


You’re always welcome to drop by our store and see our local and international collection or chat to our team about designing a new piece.