Marquise


Janai Jewellery offers a huge range of unique options when it comes to crafting the perfect engagement ring for your beloved partner. From a selection in ring design, including solitaire, halo, and trilogy, with choices of platinum, white gold, and yellow gold, we know that you will find exactly the type of engagement ring you are dreaming about. When we’re talking centre stones, however, sometimes our customers want something a little different. Sure, you can go with the round brilliant or Asscher, but if you’re in the market for something a little more unique, then why not consider the marquise diamond cut? Marquise diamonds, although still a feature in today’s market, they are the perfect selection for someone who is looking to stand out from the crowd. As a bonus, they are also a more affordable option in comparison to a round brilliant cut diamond or the oval cut diamond.

FEATURES


Ethically-sourced,
GIA certified diamonds

Hand-crafted
in store

Creative and collaborative
design approach

Over 35 years industry
experience

THE HISTORY OF THE MARQUISE-CUT DIAMOND

 

The marquise diamond cut, also known as the football-shaped cut, the boat-shaped cut, the eye-shaped cut, or the navette, is rarely seen in the engagement ring world compared to other less vintage cuts.

A marquise cut diamond features 58 facets and an elliptical shape with pointed ends. It has been around for centuries, and though it cannot brag the same level of popularity as the princess or round cuts, its traditional, long, narrow shape looks excellent on a ring finger.

History of the Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut’s origin dates back to the 18th century when King Louis XV of France (1710-1774) commissioned a jeweler to design a cut shape that resembled the lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour.  Over time, the marquise cut developed into the distinctive shape known today.

The name “marquise” refers to a hereditary rank above a count but below a duke and comes from the fact that courtiers wore marquise cut diamonds in order to show off their rank. Marquise diamonds are also often referred to as “navette” diamonds, which means “little ship” in French, because of the marquise diamond’s boat-like shape.

Though the marquise cut began as a cut for diamonds, it is widely used with other gems like emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.

Tips When Buying A Marquise Cut Diamond

Marquise diamonds can be used for any jewelry item, but they are most commonly placed in engagement ring settings. Here are a few things you should know before purchasing a marquise cut:

 Slenderize Your Finger – Because of its long, narrow shape, marquise cuts are often credited for making a finger appear longer and more slender.

 Watch Out For Chips – The sharp ends of the marquise cut are often susceptible to chipping if not protected properly by the jewelry setting. For a ring, make sure the corners have protected prongs or claws to keep the corners safe. “V-end” or “V-tip” prongs are generally considered the most secure.

The Importance of Symmetry – The two points at the ends of a marquise diamond need to align perfectly with one another. The smallest imperfection of the symmetrical element of a marquise diamond will greatly affect the balance of your ring when it is finally set.

 Different Approach On Color – Because of their antique history and slender shape, many buyers might prefer marquise diamonds with a slight tint of color in them such as I-J graded diamonds, rather than colorless diamonds.

 Beware the Bow Tie Effect – With their narrow shape, some marquise cuts produce an area of reduced color in the center of the gem sometimes resembling a bow tie.  All elongated fancy shapes have a bow tie effect, but a well-cut diamond will hide that effect with the brilliance of its facets.

Unique Features Facets L/W Ratio Origin Expert Tip
Long “navette” oval shape. Usually 56 to 58 Ideally 1.85 – 2.10 1745 French Royalty. Optimises carat weight and elongates finger.

2. Features

The Marquise Brilliant cut may also be referred to as the “Navette” shape, meaning “little boat,” as the shape of the diamond is said to mirror the hull of a small boat. It is generally comprised of 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, although the number of pavilion facets may range between 4 and 8. Additionally, Marquise shapes are sometimes cut with a “French tip,” which replaces the large bezel facet at the point with star and upper girdle facets.

French tips are also used in the Heart and Pear shapes. Even though the optimal ratio of the Marquise is 2:1, the shape is more traditionally cut to ratios ranging between 1.85 and 2.10 according to personal preference.

The Marquise can suffer from a so-called “bow-tie effect” whenlight passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the stone. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the Pear, Oval and Heart shapes.

3. Expert Advise

“The Marquise cut can maximise carat weight, making it appear larger than other stones of the same size and is often set with round or pear-shaped side-stones. As with other elongated shapes, the Marquise can make fingers appear longer and more slender.

It is important that the Marquise is not too shallow so as to avoid light passing through the back of the diamond and diminishing its brilliance and fire.”

4. History & Background

The Marquise cut first appeared in Paris circa 1745 and its fascinating history can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy. King Louis XV commissioned his court jeweller to create a diamond that resembled the smile of his beautiful mistress, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. A well-educated and intellectual woman who exerted strong political opinions on the French court, Madame de Pompadour was the official maitresse en titre of King Louis XV between 1745 and 1750.

The shape was then developed and modified throughout the 20th century, evolving into the Marquise Brilliant cut as it is known today, seeing an especial rise in popularity between the 1960s and 1980s. The Marquise cut first appeared in Paris in approximately 1745. The fascinating history of the Marquise cut can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy reign.

Sample of Bowtie marquise diamond

Marquise Diamonds

The football-shaped marquise diamonds are a modified brilliant-cut. The name is derived from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Because marquise diamonds are long and narrow, they can also create the illusion of greater size. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest crown surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a good choice when trying to maximize the perceived size of a diamond. Like the oval diamond, the marquise cut diamond’s elongated shape can make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer.

Marquise diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection. If you are interested in purchasing a marquise cut diamond, but would like to have it inspected first, please contact a diamond consultant, who can review diamonds on your behalf. chat online, or email a consultant from Janai Jewellery Melbourne.

Marquise Diamond LW Ratios.

Personal preference should dictate how narrow or fat of a marquise diamond you choose, although a length to width ratio of 1.75 -2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut. Every Lumera Diamond includes precise measurements, as well as the length to width ratio, so you know the exact shape of the marquise cut diamond you are considering.

Symmetry is very important in marquise cuts. The two end points should align with each other, and the right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an off kilter look in the final setting. For this reason, excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.

A marquise diamond should always be set with prongs to protect the two points (the most likely location for chipping). Because these points were once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the points are covered by prongs, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).

The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of a marquise diamond.

Evaluating color in a marquise cut diamond is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with a marquise cut diamond at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.

In larger marquise diamonds (over 1 carat), the color may appear slightly darker at the points. For this reason, buyers may choose to move up one color grade as compared to other diamond shapes. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in marquise diamonds.

Like color, evaluating clarity in marquise diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in marquise diamonds.

BOOK A CONSULTATION


You’re always welcome to drop by our store and see our local and international collection or chat to our team about designing a new piece.